In our country, until recently, mainly houses were built from log cabins, bricks or concrete, but now the time has come for new technologies, and frame houses have appeared in this segment. They are very popular due to the unique combination of high quality and low financial costs. But the main thing is the opportunity to make a durable frame house with your own hands without the use of special equipment. Therefore, we have made detailed step-by-step instructions for you.
The manual itself consists of 7 stages:
- choice of place for home;
- design;
- foundation installation;
- frame assembly;
- walling;
- thermal insulation;
- roofing.
The construction of a frame house has the main advantage over other technologies - the rapid pace of construction without involving special lifting mechanisms. Inexpensive skeletons are put into operation in one season, but this speed in no way impairs the comfort and quality of living - these parameters are no worse than for wooden and stone houses.
Site selection
In accordance with the urban regulations of the Russian Federation, your apartment building should be located at a distance of at least 3 m from the official border of the site. Also, in most cases, local regulations govern the 5-meter indent from the red line of the street to the house.
It should be noted that all frames are classified as IV and V degrees of fire resistance, therefore, in accordance with fire safety standards, the distance from your construction to the house on the adjacent site should be at least 10 meters.
The remaining requirements for the placement of the house are presented in this image:
We make a project
According to the Federal Law, the developer is obliged to be guided by a project created by professional design organizations. Compiled documentation should also be agreed upon by authorized officials of various services, where changes and / or additions may be made.
In fact, local authorities only require a preliminary design, including a general layout scheme, plans, section, facades and basic technical and economic indicators. Such a project costs no more than 10,000 rubles, and you can order it already in fact after the erection before commissioning.
Nevertheless, for your convenience and economy on alterations, we recommend that you select a suitable standard project or make an individual one taking into account personal preferences and wishes. In both cases, it is necessary to mark up all communications and add engineering systems to the plan.
We draw your attention to the fact that typical projects are traditionally cheaper, and individual ones allow you to realize your own ideas. Individual drawings from the project documentation are compiled taking into account the terrain and other features of the site - only such scrupulousness can guarantee the long-term operation of the home without problems and overhaul.
Engineering systems
To build a frame house, it is necessary to provide for the introduction of all engineering networks into the project. They are laid in strict sequence, and you need to start from the foundation. In the case of using a concrete base, all technological holes for communication systems must be made at the time of pouring, so that after solidification not to engage in complex drilling of holes.
The electrical system consists of a switchboard, electrical wiring, outlets and grounding. The distance between the points under the sockets should be no more than 4 m. Sockets with covers are installed next to the water sources. The ventilation system includes ducts with openings. Is it worth recalling that the ease of access and use of taps, switches, as well as the functioning of drains and drainage, depends on the correct wiring of pipes and wires?
Foundation installation
Construction technology involves the use of a shallow tape, columnar or block foundation. The strength of the base is increased with the help of reinforcement and monolithic strapping. A qualitative foundation can be made only after a geological analysis of the soil.
In most cases, for a frame house, a simpler foundation is enough, which can easily withstand small loads. The most appropriate are screw piles. Such a foundation does not require a large amount of materials, which reduces the construction estimate by an average of 15-20%.
In the case of a monolithic foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, compact the soil and pour a sand cushion. Before you start pouring concrete, you need to make a formwork and install reinforcement bars. The solution is necessarily rammed during the pouring process. Every 2 m, vertical studs half a meter long are placed in the liquid concrete of the base - the lower frame of the frame will be attached to them. The surface of the resulting grillage must be leveled with cement mortar.
Bottom harness
Seven days after work on pouring concrete, the lower binding of wooden beams with a cross section of 15x15 cm is laid on the entire surface of the foundation. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptic agents, and two layers of roofing material, which serves as horizontal waterproofing, are laid on the bottom.
The beam can be fixed with anchor bolts or foundation pins. If bolts are used, then under them you need to drill technological holes up to 10 cm in depth.
Floors
When all the wooden beams are laid and connected with each other and with the foundation, grooves are formed in them and floor logs are placed (board 50x150 mm). The upper part of the lag is verified horizontally, and boards are beaten on the bottom - they will serve as the basis for the installation of the rough floor. Membrane insulation is laid on the resulting sub-base (it does not allow weathering and wetting of the insulation, while it does not impede the release of water vapor). In between the lags, it is necessary to press in the insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene) and cover it with a vapor barrier. An edged board (40x15 mm) is laid on top.
Create a wireframe
From the name of the technology it is clear that the main element of such a structure is the frame, and it is on it that the whole structure is held. The skeleton consists of vertical posts fixed with bolts and a horizontal strapping. As before, the entire construction process is carried out in stages.
The material used is wood. It is recommended to choose coniferous timber with a low degree of humidity, ideally - chamber drying. The height of the rack should correspond to a similar room setting. The racks are connected with nails 10 cm long. After fitting the elements, there should be no gaps.
Depending on the load that will affect the bearing supports, as well as based on the size of the insulation and casing material, the distance between the racks is planned. The universal cross-section of the racks is 150x50 mm, in the openings they put a double beam of 150x50 mm. The most popular step is 600 mm (allows you to install insulation “in tightness” for tight filling of the wall). To connect the racks with the lower harness, temporary braces are used, which makes the structure gain the necessary rigidity.
The installation of the upper harness is carried out after installing all the racks. Fixation occurs using the same grooves that fastened the lower beam. The upper fastening to the uprights is carried out with two nails, which must enter the material by at least 10 cm. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by constant mowing, installed instead of the dismantled temporary ones. Read more about this in the article “Upper and Lower Harness“. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device of the most important components of the frame house.
We insulate the walls
The external walls of the house are sheathed with imitation of timber, wooden paneling, plastic siding, as the owner of the house wishes. Warming is best done with mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly, durable and does not burn, which makes skeletons even more profitable and in demand.
If you plan to live in the house all year round, choose insulation with a thickness of 15 cm or more. For greater efficiency, fill the counter-lattice from a 50x50 mm timber (8) over the racks and put the insulation (7) “in the second layer” - this way you will avoid possible cold bridges and make the house truly energy-efficient. Read more about the construction of the wall cake, as well as the general warming of the frame house.
The material is pressed into all the cracks between the beams to remove voids. The hydro- and windproof membrane, which is mounted on top of the insulation on the racks, will help protect the tree from moisture, and only then the rack battens for the ventilation façade will be packed, which will be hidden under the outer lining. Inside, for wall sheathing, OSB or gypsum boards mounted on top of a vapor barrier are suitable.
We build a ceiling
The ceiling is attached to the beams of the ceiling, which in turn are fixed with nails or steel brackets on the beam of the upper trim. Where interior partitions are installed, you need to install support bars, in the place of which a wooden ceiling shield is nailed.
On top of the shield you need to lay a vapor barrier film, flush with which mineral wool or polystyrene is laid. On top of the insulation is closed by a windproof membrane, and boards are laid on top of it. Read more about attic floor insulation.
Roof
Before starting work, determine the degree of slope, the number of slopes, the type of roofing, the design of the rafter system.
A roof with a complex shape looks attractive, but it is difficult to implement, so it’s not cheap. Most often there are gable structures that allow you to equip an attic or attic. Here it is necessary to establish only one ridge, there are no valleys at all, which eliminates the accumulation of precipitation and leakage. To prevent snow from lingering on the roof, plan a slope of more than 28º, but not more than 50º, otherwise the wind load will increase.
The cross section of the rafters is determined according to the thickness of the insulation material placed between them. It is best to take a board with a caliber of 150x50mm and a length of 6 m. Two boards need to be knocked down in the shape of the letter L, and then they are raised up and the angle is determined, making sure that the overhangs go beyond the wall level by 30-50 cm. Now the boards can be assembled with the help of a crossbar, and we get a kind of rafters.
The upper harness acts here as a Mauerlat. According to the manufactured sample, rafters are created on the entire roof, not forgetting about a step of 600 mm. The rafters on the ridge are installed on the pediment and the installation of the remaining elements is continued on them. The type of roofing depends on the type of roofing material.
Roofing material
The step-by-step instruction ends at the stage of installing the roofing. You can choose a soft tile, a professional flooring or a metal tile. It is easy to work with all these materials, they are affordable and have a decent look. After facing works, it remains only to install drainpipes and a drainage system, which will be responsible for the removal of precipitation outside the site.
Now you represent the whole process of building a frame house with your own hands, so that the structure is durable and warm. If you do not ignore the rules of construction and assembly technology, you will become the happy owner of your own home, which you can only dream of.